Vanessa Ives Gothic Ladies Tailcoat
This jacket was inspired by the dark and lovely Miss Vanessa Ives from Penny Dreadful, with an added touch of the type of wicked fairy one might find in a misty, fairy-tale woodland.
The jacket is cut with a nipped in waist and classic tailcoat silhouette – short points in front sweeping round to a long, flared tail at the back. The back features two slits running from the hem up to the waist seam, finished with decorative metal buttons. The front waist seam has small pocket flaps set into it, but please note that these are purely decorative – they do not lead to actual pockets!
The centre front of the jacket opens & closes with three black Chinese buttons at the waist, bust line and throat. Closing the throat one creates the classic prim & proper Victorian look while leaving it undone results in a more open, almost V-neck shape which you can see in the last image.
The collar is a small stand up one that gets higher at the back neck and is overlayed with a fine floral lace. Gathered mesh tulle creates a wide but soft ruffle around the neck and continues more narrowly down the front opening.
The upper sleeves are the classic Victorian puff/leg o’ mutton silhouette in two layers, with the emerald silk of the body slightly showing through the overlay of black embroidered mesh. From the elbow the sleeves flare out very dramatically into many overlapping layers of mixed fabric. At the front the sleeve falls slightly over the hand, to about the knuckles, and then gets longer at the back. They are swishy enough for the perfect swooning pose!
Outer Fabric: Main - 100% Dupioni silk in emerald green. Upper Sleeve Overlay – 100% synthetic blend mesh with floral embroidery in black. Lower Sleeve/Cuff Layers – 100% nylon tulle in black with silver glitter, 100% synthetic blend floral patterned lace in black, 100% synthetic blend crochet lace in black, 100% Dupioni silk in black. Trim – 100% nylon soft mesh tulle in black, 100% synthetic lace in black. Buttons – metal alloy with antiqued silver finish.
Lining (fully lined): 100% acrylic blend paisley-pattern brocade in black.
This is based on my size 36 pattern, which is designed around a person with the following measurements: Bust = 95.3cm, Waist = 75.4cm, Hip = 99.1cm. The jacket has finished measurements of 104cm around the bust and 78cm at the waist. It is cut shorter than the widest part of your hips at the front and flares out around the hip at the back, so if your bust & waist seem suitable the hip should also be absolutely fine.
Washing / Garment care
Please note that this is not the type of garment you will be able to just throw in the washing machine. I would strongly recommend specialist cleaning if it is to last.